Climbing
Mt Sinai
The Sinai Peninsula’s empty desert landscape evokes a Presence,
a silence so quiet it requires you to listen. As I watched the eroding
dunes and the Bedouin
tribes herding their camels and goats from out van window, my cells awakened
to a calling of my ancestors as if in a timeless dimension they were still here.
It
wasn’t the first time that I had climbed Moses Mt as they
call Mt Sinai here. My friend Bobbie and I had made the pilgrimage
up the mountain in 1996
beginning at 2:00 am to reach the apex for sunrise. Then it was colder, and
others joined us along the way until hundreds met the dawn as a
group of Belgian nuns
sang in the morning light. That trip had its own magic and drama, but this
time something quite amazing occurred.
The
purpose of my climb this time was to pray for world peace. We had
scheduled it for Oct 6th (the anniversary of the Yom
Kippur war). However, some business
dealings in South Africa forced my husband Gary and me to reverse our plans,
so we began our climb on the 23rd, day of September after the Fall Equinox.
I had always realized that when one commits one’s life to personal
and global transformation, Spirit has its way of guiding your path to meet
the perfection
required for your task.
At
the foot of Mt Sinai lies St Catherine’s Benedictine monastery,
the oldest living Greek Orthodox Church in the world. It houses
the Burning Bush
that Moses saw when God spoke to him as well the body of St Catherine,
a woman whose body miraculously was transported to Mt Sinai in
3rd Century AD after her
death in Alexandria. She had been an atheist and had had a spiritual awakening,
which eventually lead to her death by the Romans. After her death, a monk
had dreamt that her body was lying on the mountain and he went
to find her. Since
then her remains are entombed in the monastery and have been worshipped
by pilgrims for centuries.
Aside
from the miracle of St Catherine, the Burning Bush is thriving
in the courtyard of the monastery. The Bush had originally
been growing inside
the
monastery as
the monks had originally built the walls around it.
However,
now the root was guided under the walls to a courtyard just outside
where this 3700 year- old plant flourishes.
Emil, our Egyptologist
and
friend, told us that there is no other plant like it anywhere else
in the world.
It was astounding to see how robust it was and as I stood beneath it,
there seemed
to
be a Presence there. One can never tell if something gains its energy
from those who believe in it and therefore create its mystery or if
the mystery
comes first.
It was clear that whatever was creating its power could be clearly
experienced.
When
we returned from the monastery that morning Emil, Gary and I held
a Native American pipe ceremony to send our prayers
out before we made
our
climb up
the mountain that afternoon. I have taken the pipe all over the world
to weave the
prayers wherever I go and can feel the Spirit of the Pipe with me
when I offer myself for planetary transformation.
While
Gary and I had intended to make the climb alone, our security guard,
a twenty-year old young man named Allah who had been traveling
with our
van from
Cairo wanted to go too. He later told me he was a Coptic Christian
and had been very moved by the monastery that morning. When I looked
at him
climbing
the mountain
in his navy blue polyester suit with black leather dress shoes,
I was concerned about his
ability to make it easily but he was undaunted. As three pilgrims
we began the winding dirt path together. With each step, the mountains
red-brown earth surrounded
us as the monastery receded in a bowl beneath them. Desolate yet
pregnant
with a silence that pulled us higher making each step a prayer,
a call Home. The
bright blue cloudless sky created a surreal backdrop to the red
earth. A slight breeze
kissed our bodies as the 80 degree temperature warmed it.
The
path to Mt Sinai is well marked and neatly cleared winding in a
switchback pattern up the mountain at about a 15 degree
grade. I tried
to imagine
how it must have been for Moses who climbed without path or knowledge
of where
it might
lead him. Today one often rides camels up to the 750 stairs that
are the final stages of the climb, but we wanted to walk.
After we had been climbing for about an hour, I realized we had
not run into anyone on the path, not even a camel driver trying
to get
us to
ride his
camel to the top. It started to feel odd and then something started
sinking in as
if some special arrangements were being made for the purpose
of our journey. In
a country like Egypt where one encounters vendors at the top
of mountains selling statues, it was incomprehensible that no
one
was on the path.
About halfway
up we encountered our first makeshift teashop that was built
against the mountain offering pilgrims refreshment from the climb.
We seemed
to be
its only customer
that day and realized that when the young man behind the counter
wanted five pounds for the usual one pound cup of tea, we were
captives of
supply and
demand. After a brief stop where we took some photos we moved
quite easily up into
the
higher elevations. Where the path ends and the 750 stone steps
begin there is a dramatic opening in the walls of the mountain.
Through
the crack in
the mountain,
a vista opens which reveals down below a courtyard with trees
and shrubs surrounded by an old stone building known as Elijah’s garden. Above it were small
stone houses that were used by the local inhabitants to gather and sell refreshments
to the climbers. Everything was empty and still. We stopped and took in the grand
and intimate space becoming more puzzled and yet appreciative of our solitude.
We could have rested there, but propelled to the top we began to climb the steep
750 stone steps that were carefully created through the narrow mountain pass.
The higher we climbed the more breathtaking the vistas with mountains
layering each other in hues of purple, blue and red. The sun
was beginning to move
toward the West as we reached the apex that is crowned by a small
Benedictine chapel,
closed except for those special ones with a key.
Once
at the top, I realized that we had come there encountering no one.
It was quite remarkable when only that morning there
were hundreds
touring
the
monastery
below and when I had climbed 8 years before we had walked with
many. As I rounded the church I noticed an elderly man sitting
on the wall
behind
it.
He looked
to be in his 70’s wearing a broad brimmed straw hat and
a blue check shirt. Noticing us, Case came to introduce himself.
As I noticed a small tent nestled
into the only flat place on the top, Case explained he had
been camping on the mountain for 8 days with 8 more planned.
As we sat together watching the sun
begin to set, Case told me that he had heard God speak to him
when he was a little boy on his farm in Holland. For the past
42 years he has traveled all over the
world, guided by his inner voice to pray for the world and
teach about sustainable agriculture. Now in Ethiopia, Ruanda,
France, England, Brazil, and more countries
than I could remember, he goes among the people responding
to God’s call.
As we shared our mutual intention to pray and meditiate for
world peace, the three of us sat together as the sun set. Our
dear friend Allah had fallen asleep.
He was tired and cold refusing any of our offers of food and
water along the way. I have noticed over the years when something
holy is about to happen, those
who are not to witness it will fall asleep.
About
10 minutes before the sun sank below the farthest mountain, a young
Muslim boy dressed in a lavender gallabaya stood
at the tip of
the mountain
and began
to chant. Sillhoueted against the darkening sky, his melodic
voice calling out to God reverberating its ancient sound
was the perfect
backdrop as
we sat in
silence. There we were Christain, Muslim and Jew praying
together for world peace. Sitting there taking in the profundity
of
that moment, I remembered
that it was
the holiest week of the Jewish year between Rosh Hoshanah
and Yom Kippur,
known as the Ten Days of Awe. Eyes closed with my face towards
the sun, a bolt of
white light come through the heavens and into my body. High
on God’s Mountain
watching the sunset, something was ignited by the four of
us as if we entered a timeless dimension where all becomes
One. When the sun disappeared at last,
Case said that Jesus had entered his heart, and he could
feel him spreading the light out to the world. He mentioned
that that only happens when the company
he keeps holds it too. In the eight days that Case had been
there, the young Muslim had never come to pray, nor had Case
been there without hundreds of people
joining him.
The
palpable silence at the top of Moses Mountain felt like God was
saying “
yes” to our prayers, a clear call to peace.We stayed a bit longer sharing
chocolate and some food with Case who came to the mountain without provisions
knowing that God would provide. His simple ways belied his holiness as most people
would only see an old man dressed in everyday clothes camping on the mountain.As
we began our trip back to the monastery, a young couple from Montreal just rounded
the church. They had hoped to catch the sunset, but were prepared to spend the
night. After them five Egyptian young men followed both groups lamenting that
they hadn’t made it in time. It was about 7:00 pm as Allah, Gary and I
retraced our steps back to the Monastery with the moon’s light illuminating
our way in the stillness of the night. We met no one else on the path as we made
our descent, at least that we could see.
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